There are two flight-worthy visions of abstraction this autumn - 50s French couture fashionistas will like the disproportionately big garments, while 80s Japanese conceptual fashionistas will go into a frenzy for the enormous garments. Though these styles are definitely different, one thing is vital for either look: the bigger, the better. Kinder Aggugini sparked globetrotting fancies with his combination of fifties redux from France and eighties redux in Japan, ensuring every fashionistas’ heart took flight last week. More like a tour guide as oppose to a tourist in the fashion world, Aggugini was born and raised in Italy before escaping to England to study both at St. Martins School of Art and on London’s Savile Row. His career took him to work for John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood and Paul Smith, before relocating overseas to design at some of the world’s most prestigious luxury houses, Versace, Calvin Klein and Costume National, as ghost designer. In 2008, Kinder stepped into the spotlight with his first own name collection – which was exclusively stocked at Dover Street Market, following a personal visit from Rei Kawakubo.
Inspired by Peggy Guggenheim’s modernist sense of aesthetic and flamboyant taste willingly breaks tradition while remaining elegant - Kinder Aggugini hopped on board to epitomize abstract glamour in Europe. A trip to Venice last autumn lead Aggugini to visualize what Peggy might have worn had she been around today. This admiration booked Aggugini‘s ticket all the way to London Fashion Week in which his entire Autumn/Winter 2011 collection was explored. In attendance, amongst the global press were the singer Bat For Lashes (Natasha Khan), Marina & The Diamonds’ Marina Diamandis, Sharleen Spiteri, Duran Duran’s Nick Rhodes, DJ and pop stars Yasmin and Sunday Girl.
Models commuted down the runway in the same way the Guggenheim collections fused modern art spanning over four decades and come up with garments where shape and form is exaggerated. The French 50s and Japanese 80s concepts were larger than life, yet remained chic and graceful on their journey. Garments were almost completely shapeless and they still maintained the elegance and feminity essential to fashion. Utilizing one single fabric: a cashmere mix treated with the newest technologies, from fusing to bonderising to dip dyeing to industrial brushing and laser cutting, Aggugini gave fashionistas the itinerary to fashion heaven. Modernism coexisting alongside contemporary has always apparent as Aggugini is renown for his skill. Impeccably tailored coats with sharp jet buttons, and flowing romantic dresses toughened with bold prints and colors are some of his craft.
Aggugini seizes to accomplish as he consistently embraces the both old and new component - deep research into fabrics and an often obscure approach to detail, blends tradition with his scientifically mastered treatments. The use of lavish materials treated with modern technologies and the experimenting with form is his desire to confront the traditional form of design and create a contemporary sense of luxury. Travel is the activity going from one place to another location and with his Autumn/Winter 2011 showing, Kinder Aggugini is definitely going places.
photos via nymag.com